2017 marked a significant shift in Prada's aesthetic direction. In a world increasingly saturated with information, trends, and ostentatious displays of wealth, the house, in collaboration with AMO (the research and design think tank founded by Rem Koolhaas), embarked on a journey back to fundamentals. This wasn't a mere stylistic tweak; it was a philosophical repositioning, a conscious effort to strip away the superfluous and rediscover the core essence of design and craftsmanship that defined Prada's legacy. This exploration manifested across its various collections – FW 2017 Womenswear, FW 2017 Men’s and Women’s, and SS 2017 Womenswear – each offering a unique perspective on this return to basics.
FW 2017 Womenswear: Deconstructing the Familiar
The Fall/Winter 2017 womenswear collection served as a powerful statement of this minimalist approach. The familiar Prada silhouette, often characterized by structured tailoring and bold embellishments, was subtly deconstructed. While the brand's signature sophistication remained, it was now expressed through a refined simplicity. The collection featured clean lines, understated colours, and a focus on the quality of materials. Instead of relying on elaborate embroidery or excessive detailing, the emphasis shifted to the inherent beauty of the fabrics themselves – luxurious cashmere, soft leathers, and finely woven wools.
The colour palette reflected this minimalist ethos. Muted tones of beige, grey, and navy dominated, punctuated occasionally by pops of vibrant colour, but always used sparingly and strategically. This restrained approach allowed the garments to speak for themselves, showcasing the impeccable tailoring and the meticulous attention to detail that are hallmarks of Prada craftsmanship. The silhouettes were largely straightforward – impeccably tailored coats, sleek trousers, and simple dresses – yet they possessed an undeniable elegance and sophistication.
The accessories played a crucial role in reinforcing this theme of understated luxury. The bags, for instance, were characterized by their clean lines and functional design. While still unmistakably Prada, they eschewed excessive branding and ornamentation, focusing instead on the quality of the leather and the precision of the construction. Similarly, the shoes were understated yet elegant, showcasing the brand's mastery of craftsmanship without resorting to flashy embellishments.
AMO's influence was subtly yet powerfully felt throughout the collection. Their focus on functionality and essentialism is evident in the clean lines and the emphasis on practical design. The collection wasn't about creating fleeting trends; it was about creating timeless pieces that would endure beyond the season. This reflected a broader shift in the fashion landscape, where consumers were increasingly valuing quality, longevity, and ethical considerations over ephemeral trends.
FW 2017 Men’s and Women’s: A Shared Language of Simplicity
The Fall/Winter 2017 collection, presented as a unified men’s and women’s show, further solidified Prada's commitment to this new aesthetic direction. The collection emphasized the shared language of simplicity and functionality, blurring traditional gender boundaries in the process. The use of similar materials and colour palettes across both lines reinforced the idea of a unified vision, highlighting the underlying principles of minimalism and essentialism.
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